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The good, the bad and the ugly - A traveller's tale - 2005/05/01 11:32
This is by no means a brief account of my trip to CH from to 18 April to 21 of April 2005.
I have addressed several issues which might aid anyone in planning their trip there. Among them: the weather this time of the year, travelling without a car, insects, the whole Equatorial (EQ) vs Strawberry Park debate and tourist attractions.
Be warned: LONG entry.
The Trip There
The bus pulled out of the Pudu bus station just shy of 9 o’clock despite being scheduled to leave at 8.45 am. It could not have felt more exhilarating. K, my better half, got a seat without an armrest. Little did we realise what a problem that would turn out be.
We have both visited CH before but while my last excursion was 2 years ago, more than a decade had passed since K was up there. As I was responsible for planning the entire trip, naturally I was anxious for things to turn out favourably. I had booked us in both Equatorial AND Strawberry Park due to vacancy issues rather than pure fickle-mindedness.
Enroute our bus did a detour and made a 20 minute stop at a truck stop somewhere near Tanjong Malim town. Good time to stretch the limbs, get some bladder relief and grab something to eat. So far so good.
The roads leading up to the Highlands are infamous. Yes, they are as winding as people say they are and I do not recommend it for novice drivers. Of course our hero of a bus driver knew every twist and turn, honking at sharp corners and overtaking a bus sekolah even. Poor K had to hold on to the headrest in front of him to avoid sliding off his seat and landing on the aisle. Moral of the story: insist on your armrest! I popped a pill before leaving so I blissfully slept through his ordeal.
In the bus, there is a sign that warn against dealing with independent tour operators along the Tanah Rata main road alleging that they may be swindlers. Perhaps there have been cases of cheats before? The bus driver also conveniently handed passengers flyers of the tours organised by the bus company itself. As we did not sign up for either, I could not comment.
We zoomed pass the town of Ringlet before arriving at the Tanah Rata bus station shortly past 1 pm. We bought out tickets home as soon as we got there. It’s RM12.90 each way.
The short rows of shop houses lining both sides of the narrow main road consisted mainly of family restaurants, convenience stores and a Marry Brown franchise. There is an internet café along this road too although geeks be warned, it felt like dial-up.
The weather
The sun was shining, the sky was heart-stopping blue and the air was quite cool due to the breeze and not cold in the slightest. And I cleverly lugged my woollens all the way from KL. Apparently this is the warm season and it only gets really chilly at night. Yet compared to the sweltering heat of the low lands, it was very pleasant.
Equatorial Hotel
The taxi station was just next to the bus station and a trip up to EQ cost RM10. Forget the limos and MPVs. Small town cabs rule here. The beat-up blue Datsuns and chocolate Mercedes with faux leather seats are the norm.
EQ has lovely landscaping. Plants were flowing in abundance but as manure had just been added, the flies were their constant companion.
The hotel has everything you would expect from a modern city hotel. Shower, bathtub, continuous supply of hot water, fridge, laundry - you get the idea. Only grouse is that there is no fan in the room. As only two small windows could be opened, a little circulation would have done wonders for us. With EQ overlooking a valley, the view from our room on the 8th floor was of scattered houses amid vegetable patches and green rolling hills.
The telly was a bit disappointing with a couple of local channels, transmission of which were not very good, and two Vision 4 channels. I personally dislike the banal variety offered by Vision 4 so I spent a lot of my time with my nose in a book.
In relation to the internet connection there is one pc at lobby that is fitted with internet connection and it cost quite a bit of money.
We had lunch at the hotel coffee house. Vegetarians could expect salads, soups and vegetarian fried rice. Prices were steep but it was the only restaurant in the hotel that was open on weekday afternoon. A glass of Coke cost RM8. Normal for a hotel I guess.
Attack of the Flies
Yet the more disturbing discovery was of the flies! There were everywhere and there were a lot of them. Apart from being the hot season, it appeared that this was also the season for flies. Attributed to the manure used by the surrounding vegetable farms, the flies are just a natural occurrence this time of the year. That did not make us feel any better though. The waiter kindly lit candles for us to ward them off but it had limited success. Having to continually wave off the flies from our food and face was something K and I could not get used to throughout our stay.
At the hotel, there is a small convenience store/counter selling everything from toothpaste to titbits but naturally one pays premium. (Better to get your muchies from town.) The other restaurants – the Bistro and Phoenix Chinese restaurant only open their doors after 6.30pm. Also boasts a karaoke lounge.
There is a mamak shop a short walk away from the main hotel tower. Still within the hotel compound, it served the normal mamak fair. Plagues by flies as well, the owners hung strips of tape from the ceiling all around to trap these insects. Commendable but the place ended up looking quite grotesque with these long ribbons polka-dotted with dead flies. But the food is cheap. 2 roti canai and a nasi lemak cost about RM5. Best taken away and enjoyed in the comfort of one’s hotel room.
A short leisurely walk down hill from EQ brought us to Kea strawberry farm. Pick-you-Own seems to have caught on in CH. For those familiar with strawberry picking abroad, note that this is a totally different experience. Cultivated using hydrophonic methods, the plants grow from plastic cocoons filled with nutrients. For the pleasure of snipping the berries off their stalks you pay RM30 per kg picked. RM5 extra for cream and honey. Of course it is much cheaper just buying the ready picked berries. Do try the strawberry ice lolly. Very yummy.
A mere 3 minute walk away brought us to a road of makeshift stalls that sold fresh greens at seriously dirt cheap prices. Not intending to lug cabbages or tomatoes on the bus home, we left without purchasing anything.
We had dinner at the Chinese restaurant located a stone’s throw away from the farm. Ordering a tofu dish and a vegetable stir fry, the food was reasonably priced at RM22 but was not spectacular. For thirsty travellers there is a small bar in here. A brisk walk in the chilly air was invigorating but we made a note not to leave too late as the road up to EQ is pretty dark. Nevertheless EQ itself is well lit.
Tour around CH
At EQ, there is counter for taxis and tours. EQ also offers a bus service to Tanah Rata for a small fee. As K and I were chariotless, we decided to catch the sights by joining an organised tour. The tours available ranged from guided hikes to trips to vegetables farms and flower gardens. The prices quoted here are slightly more expensive than the tours touted by the bus company earlier. We opted for EQ’s countryside tour which cost RM25 per person.
Next morning, a van came to the hotel picked us up at 9.15am. Our little group included an elderly couple and a family with three young children. We hadn’t realised that most of the attractions are quite close to EQ. Most are destinations can be reached on foot if you really have the time, stamina and inclination – none of which we had.
Our first stop was the Rose Garden. Paying a minimal fee to enter, we were greeted by blooms in a rainbow of colours. Orchids, hydrangeas, hibiscus, lilies and roses occupy the lower levels of the garden. Cutting into the side of the hill, the garden stretched upwards where more plants are found. It is worth climbing the steps. The sunflowers are located on the terrace. Plant cuttings can be bought at a reasonably cheap price. A pretty place, we had a good time looking around. We spent about 30-45 minutes here. Not the best place for the elderly as the steps are steep and climbing can be a challenge for weak knees.
We then visited Raju’s strawberry farm which is actually only a short walk up from EQ. The farm is larger than Kea Strawberry Farm and they don’t do Pick-Your-Owns. Only two narrow rows were opened for visitors to walk through. Nobody was around to explain anything to us. No signage either. Why was the hydrophonics method employed, how large was the farm, how do the plants grow – nothing. Our tour guide disappeared after dropping us off. But he made a point of telling us that this is a great place to buy strawberries.
For RM7 one gets a box of strawberries, cream and honey. Best finished on the spot. They also have ice cream, strawberries with chocolate and milkshakes. They also deliver fresh berries to your hotel but you need to pay upfront.
Next stop was the butterfly farm. At 3 per entry, it was a disappointment as the variety and number of butterflies was far from impressive. Perhaps because we only got there mid-morning, the few butterflies weren’t fluttering around much. The selection of insects was also not particularly wide although we were amused by the size of the stick insects. I was disturbed to see a few cockerels and a rabbit kept in disgraceful conditions, enclosed in rusting and filthy looking cages which are way too small for them. This place could learn much from the KL butterfly park.
Next we were driven to the apiary or bee farm. The kind elderly couple decided not to brave the many steps involved. With the mid-morning sun beating down, there was no bee activity we could see. A few hives but no busy bees. Our bad timing maybe. In any case K was not too keen on a face off with the buzzing kind so no loss to us. We did not see any other honey making processes, which is a shame. Free entry but we encountered aggressive marketing on our way out. Its commercialism all the way, baby.
The honey ice lolly is worth a buy at RM1. Very nostalgic. Many would still remember the long plastic tubes from childhood, filled with the drink of choice, knotted at the top and frozen. The days of frigid tongues and RM0.20 ice lollies are gone.
After a walk though a nearby vegetable market, we were taken to the Sungai Palas Boh Tea plantation. The small winding roads were fabulous and there were a couple of times we had to reverse as some of the turnings could only take one vehicle at a time. The view of the sea of tea bushes in the bright sunlight gladdened our hearts. Our destination was deep into the plantation. The smell of roasting tea leaves was the first thing that hit us when we stepped into the Boh processing factory. Next was the heat. A guide was on hand to explain the various processes. There were also signs with general information on the different processes. The factory visit was brief. The overwhelming crowd in the Boh teahouse prevented us form having a cuppa there. We visited the enjoining tea shop instead. Besides the tea accessories and linen, most teas sold there can be found in the lowlands.
The tour was generally enjoyable expect for one or two destinations which could hardly be called famous attractions. Our tour guide, while chirpy, did not enlighten us much on the destinations expect to tell us where we are going and when he would come pick us up. He qualified this by saying that he is new to the job. I still thought he should have made an effort as after all he is a CH native. The attractions are not disabled or elderly friendly. Steep steps and the lack of infrastructure to accommodate these groups are a main concern.
The tour ended at 1.30pm and we opted to be dropped off in Brinchang town. It was a nice town and I remember how the pasar malam here on weekends were wonderful for the fresh flowers and produce, as well as for the snack stalls.
Alas it was middle of the week. We had a vegetable stir fry and tofu again at one of the Chinese restaurants (which we hoped had less flies). The locals appear undaunted by the pests. I wondered if having steamboat instead would have been a better option. Perhaps the hot steam would have discouraged our 6 legged fiends from annoying the pants off us. Anyway, lunch was quick and we headed out to look for an internet café.
We found a small one opposite the large central carpark. It is situated on the first floor with a dark stairway leading up to it. It looked a bit dodgy from downstairs but it was actually alright and importantly broadband was in place. The rates are very cheap. For half an hour, I think both us paid less than RM1 each. We then dropped into a minimart for munchies.
There is a taxi station in the centre of town and it cost us RM10 to get to EQ. Same as how much we paid from Tanah Rata. How odd.
That night we had dinner at the Phoenix and the prices were more agreeable than the coffeehouse. Plus they had a vegetarian menu so we were happy. We won’t mind going there again as oppose to that little restaurant near Kea farm.
Strawberry Park
After 2 nights at EQ we needed to move to SP.
As our cab raced downhill I hoped the weather would still be nice and cool at SP. It was not exactly freezing high up at EQ but we had crisp invigorating breezes. I was shocked that I was charged RM18 for the drive from EQ to Strawberry Park. I think I may have gotten fleeced. When the concierge called me my cab, I should have checked how much it normally costs.
SP looked very pretty. The hotel does not consist of a single hotel tower but rather a few walk-up apartment buildings. Please bear in mind that there are no lifts and as such travellers should consider getting the rooms at the ground level if travelling with the elderly or with the disabled.
Our studio was on the top floor of a 4 story building. I was pleasantly surprised to find wooden flooring but I concede it is cooler to the feet than carpeting. Our room was huge with both a queen sized bed and a single. The bathroom was also huge with a bathtub, separate shower and toilet. Turning on the boiler, we needed to wait at least 20 minutes for hot water.
We had a TV but I was disappointed as there were only a few local channels still with bad reception and Vision 4 again. Anyway I had a book to finish so I wasn’t too upset. Every apartment on my block had a balcony, each with gorgeous cascading pink bougainvilleas. Surrounded by greenery and flowers everywhere, I dragged my armchair out to have a semi-quiet read. (There was maintenance work happening in the apartment nearby.) Unfortunately there was only one armchair in our studio. There was no ceiling fan but as the sliding doors could be opened fully, cool air blew in nicely. The room comes with a fridge too. Granted the weather was a bit warmer than EQ but still comfortable.
We had lunch at Jim Thompson, the only restaurant opened at the time. Prices were fair with my club sandwich which came with potato chips costing RM12 and K’s vegetarian pasta RM15. We still had the company of flies though. We returned to Jim Thomspon later in the afternoon for tea where the warm scones, served with cream, butter and jam (strawberry, what else?) was delightful. The two other restaurants – the Grill and the Thai restaurant only receive guests in the evenings.
SP has its own tour and travel office that is worth checking out. As we were leaving the next morning, we didn’t have time for another excursion. SP also boasts of squash courts, kids playground and an indoor swimming pool. There is also Wifi and if you neglected to bring your laptop there is a PC at the lobby. Again, not cheap at RM15 per hour.
There is also a store selling knick-knacks on the premises.
If one does not drive, the only way out to town is by calling a cab which was what we did when we checked out in the morning. Cab to Tanah Rata was RM8.
Having a quick bite at Tanah Rata, we discovered that there were hardly any flies. Perhaps warded off by the vehicle exhaust fumes as the restaurant was just beside the road. Don’t ask me which is the better option. Our bus left for Pudu at 1.30pm.
Afterthoughts
After a 3 night stay, we were well rested and ready to return to the city. We consciously did not pack our vacation with activities as our main objective was to literally not do anything, preferring to go for short walks and catching up on well deserved sleep and good reads. The weather was perfect for it. On the weekdays, nightlife is practically non-existent. CH is not a shopping haven (unless you are looking for fresh produce) nor will you find pampering spas here. Its main attraction lies in its small town charm that is rustic and endearing. People are friendly and the pace is certainly slow. Despite getting increasingly touristy, it is still good getaway for a little quiet R&R.
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